We are setting out on our version of the Hayduke Trail, a wonderful hiking and scrambling route that winds its way through the canyons and plateau of southern Utah and northern Arizona. We have lots of alternates planned from the published version but hope to follow the general spirit of the trail and seek out some wild, beautiful territory!
Starting out! |
It rained hard on Sunday April 13th as we tried to hitch from Moab to our planned start point 18 miles to the north. After getting soaked at the side of the road we retreated to the 'Sweet Cravings' cafe to regroup! Luckily for us fellow Scots Mathew and John from Largs (thanks guys, and enjoy the rest of your holiday) gave us a lift to the Klondike Bluffs junction near Moab airport and we started our hike in driving rain across the sage brush plains.
We headed north east on dirt road in the rain for about 3.5 miles to a trailhead possibly used by mountain bikers. From here we headed out east cross country over washes and rising sandstone slabs. This was great and what we had traveled from Scotland for! We aimed for the 'Marching Men' tower formation on the horizon and the sky gradually cleared as we reached Tower Arch in Arches National Park. Sitting under the arch we looked out to a magnificent canyon view framed by the arch itself.
Tower Arch |
We camped at Devils Garden and got hit by freezing cold wind and rain....long may it continue as we know that heat will be our enemy later on this hike rather than cold. Our sleep was broken during the night caused by us needing to get out to move and repitch the tent after a large puddle formed underneath.
14th April Devil's Garden to Courthouse Wash 16.5 miles
Next morning we awoke to clear blue sky and frozen puddles around the tent. Firstly we did a wee extra hike around Broken and Sandy Arches which were fantastic.
Broken Arch, Arches NP |
Our mid morning break was taken sheltering from the wind beside a rock fin before we climbed up to a fence line forming the park's western boundary. Back on the Hayduke, we crossed country south, weaving on sand between bushes and cacti before arriving at a semi circular slab dropping below us. A scramble down this led to Willow Spring wash and it was heartening to see some water in potholes in the slabs.
The wash was left further down to allow us onto the slabby plateau following a route described by Nicolas C. Barth called Arches Slickrock. This provided a great hike with expansive views to the La Sal mountains to the south east, still with a spring snow cover. A sea of grainy, ripply slick rock interspersed with sandy joints, juniper, cactus undulates but it was easy going.
Arriving above Courthouse Towers we looked down into a slightly intimidating great amphitheater of rock. The first step down was easy followed by a traverse rightwards along a slabby ledge. We then scrabbled down slightly slippy, grainy slabs using our 3mm cord to lower the backpacks a short way from a juniper tree. Then down a chimney crack back into a sandy wash- phew that was interesting!
Looking down to Courthouse Towers |
Descend down final chimney |
Courthouse Wash |
A crisp frosty morning but the sun was up quickly and we were able to lay the tent out to dry before moving off. The canyon is not narrow, generally about 50-100m wide, with red walls and shimmering green cottonwoods with mild breezes and the trickle of water- it is beautiful. We see what look like raccoon tracks in the mud and enjoy our easy walk downstream before breaking out onto the road into Moab.
Our first crossing of the mighty Colorado river is by footbridge and then we hiked on by road into the town of Moab. We had some logistics to sort out for our next long stretch and enjoy the luxury of a motel for the night - the Adventure Inn. Moab is a great vibrant town...but it was a bit weird as it is 'Jeep week' and the town is packed full of the strangest looking 'souped up' Jeeps!
Tomorrow we pick up kayaks for 70 miles paddling down the Colorado followed by 65 miles hiking. Next stop Hanksville, Utah in 9 days ....
Safe journey on the kayaks Guys. Bet that water will be cold getting in and out!
ReplyDeleteNot to cold but very muddy. Ended up caked in silt after the kayak. Was wonderful though and very relaxing.... Just drift down river and paddle occasionally... I recommend it!
ReplyDeleteJust arrived in Hanksville pop. 219 after 9 days out And will post after shower and food!!!!